Boutique Hotel Zenana

Zenana has quite a history: back in 1753 the house belonged to a tailor, and in 1829 it became the store of a glove maker, before being converted into a Viennese café in 1859. And now, a charming bed and breakfast in Northern Italy’s Dolomites – a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Occupying a building in the centre of the market town of San Candido (or Innichen in German), on the pedestrianised main street, the bedrooms look out to the surrounding peaks. Each is uniquely decorated, with themes ranging from African sunset to Hollywood elegance. Friendly owner and host Anna gladly shares the wealth of knowledge she has of the area with guests.

Each day, head to the breakfast room for morning sustenance, where a tasty – and locally-sourced – buffet is laid on, featuring cheese, ham, bread, and smoothies. Or for those preferring a bit of privacy, an in-suite option is possible on request. And after a day exploring the region, be sure to indulge in a slice of homemade cake back at the B&B.

The charming establishment does not have a restaurant, but there are plenty of choices out and about in San Candido, ranging from pizza and pasta at Theatercafé Zentral to schnitzels at casual mountaintop eatery Rifugio Baranci.

Owner Anna ran a well-regarded Italian restaurant back in South Africa; she knows the importance of food and will happily advise you on places for lunch and dinner – in the town and beyond.

9 individually decorated bedrooms with mountain views fill this boutique property in the South Tyrol of Italy. And its name? Meaning ‘of the women’, each of Zenana’s unique rooms is matched to an inspirational female: 3rd-century Queen of the Palmyrene Empire Zenobia, Goddess of prosperity Lakshmi, peasant maid Giselle from the greatest of all romantic ballets, actress and humanitarian Audrey Hepburn, Grand Duchess Anastasia Nikolaevna of Russia, Princess of White Winter Samblana, Queen Elena of Italy, Rain Queen Modjadji, and fashion designer Coco Chanel.

Much thought has gone into furnishing each guestroom, with items collected by Anna on her travels adding a personal touch. Stay in Zenobia and be greeted by pale green walls, a feel of Persia, and unusual dormer windows framing panoramas of the peaks, or opt for soothing turquoise-hued Elena and enjoy a separate seating area, a wood and stone bathroom, and a balcony. With 7 more one-of-a-kind rooms, you’re spoilt for choice.

There are things to do galore in this scenic province of Italy. The Three Peaks region of the Dolomites is an adventure playground: hike, cycle, and take in the vistas. For something slightly more relaxing, head to one of the many shimmering alpine lakes: Braies, Dobbiaco, and Anterselva are just three options.

An array of biking routes pepper the area: a top choice is San Candido-Lienz, a 46-kilometre, family-friendly track ending in Austria. The challenging Stoneman and somewhat easier Dobbiaco-Cortina trails are also well worth considering.

In wintertime, ski the picturesque Baranci resort, where the piste stretches down into town; Zenana is just a few minutes’ walk from the lift. And for those brave enough to dare, take to the slopes by night on a Tuesday and Friday.

Free parking is available.

Free Wi-fi is available.

Haunold / Erschbaum chairlifts: 8-minute walk

Lake Dobbiaco: 10-minute drive

Lake Braies: 25-minute drive 

Cortina d'Ampezzo: 45-minute drive

Bolzano: 1.5-hour drive